Dark, crowded and informal, Duende is one of the best places to sample Spanish tapas in Amsterdam. The dozens of options - grouped into meat, fish, cheese, vegetables and so on - can make choosing difficult but ordering as you go is also part of the fun.

After an inauspicious start in 2006, when it replaced the excellent (and sorely missed) La Sala, Meneer Nilsson restaurant and bar has pulled up its socks, expanded its tapas menu and trained its staff.