Rosa and Rita

Rosa & Rita has restored what was once the canteen of the Dutch Shipbuilding Company to its former function. And this is a canteen you would want to eat in. Don’t expect to run into either Rosa or Rita though; the restaurant is named after two tankers built here in 1935.

Rosa & Rita is located in a hangar-like building behind Czaar Peterstraat. The space is filled with rows of Formica tables decked with cheery checked paper tablecloths and an open kitchen. Otherwise the interior has been largely untouched.

The back-to-front menu is similarly unadorned. Rosa & Rita’s slogan is ‘Steak & Pizza’ and this is where the menu begins. The steaks are cut thin, French style, and quickly seared. Fat chips, with the skins on, green beans and a choice of sauces can be ordered individually to accompany them.

Image of Rosa and Rita pizza The pizzas are smaller than usual – about 15cm across – with a thick base. Toppings range from basic tomato and mozzarella to bresaola (Italian dried beef) with parmesan.

I ordered tartufo, the fanciest of the lot, which was topped with tomato, mozzarella, ham, mascarpone, truffle sauce and a small crop of rucola. It was crispy, cheesy and earthy, although the mascarpone melted all over the place. But I should have seen that coming.

Side dishes, which can also all be ordered individually, take the form of wholesome salads: chicory with sunflower seeds, rucola with pine nuts, and a mound of shaved fennel offset with salty parmesan.

Following the mains is a selection of meats (coppa di parma, saucisson sec, Breton pate), cheeses and pickles, which can be ordered as a starter, snack or general filler.

Other diners have gushed about Rosa & Rita’s dame blanche, served with warm chocolate sauce you pour over the ice cream yourself. Even so, I opted for the caffeine kick of the affogato, ice cream doused in hot espresso.

With its simple concept and limited array of ingredients, which pop up in different combinations in different dishes, Rosa & Rita doesn’t pretend to be anything it’s not. But there’s an attention to detail that makes the food here much more than standard canteen fare.