Restaurant Spelt

Restaurant Spelt, named after the ancient grain variety, is a lunch and dinner restaurant in the Spiegelkwartier. Located in what the Dutch charmingly call a pijpenla, which translates literally as a pipe draw and means a long, narrow room, the restaurant is simply furnished with a single row of small tables down the length of the room.

As the name suggests, Restaurant Spelt aims for quality and authenticity in its food, using local and seasonal ingredients when it can. Starters include home-smoked duck breast with chicory, quince chips and a walnut-apple vinaigrette.

The mains menu is filled with Dutch classics, which are put together with elegance and flair. Choose from dishes like tender stewed beef and stamppot (mash) served with gravy flavoured with spicy kruidkoek biscuit and apple-ginger puree; or sauerkraut, a solid winter favourite, dressed up with roasted quail, beetroots and an unusual but delightfully tangy garnish of crispy fried Groninger mustard.

Restaurant Spelt's desserts are also traditionally Dutch, but are given a light touch. These include a crumbly chestnut and vanilla cake; or a steamed pear with hangop (thick, strained yoghurt).

Wines range from €17.50-28 per bottle and include several small and organic producers in countries like Spain and Austria.

We visited on a Saturday evening, and it was strange that only half the tables were full, particularly given the rave reviews Restaurant Spelt has been getting. This turned out not to be such a bad thing, however. We were served by the owner, who is obviously passionate about what he does and spent time talking about the food and the idea behind the restaurant, even recommending an excellent Spanish red wine that wasn’t yet on the menu. We'll definitely be going back.