The fare includes hearty steak, fish and vegetarian dishes and a pretty good (although not very authentic) Indonesian pork satay. Some of the more adventurous offerings are given an Asian twist with wasabi, soya sauce or coriander. Most dishes are, or can be, served with a portion of fat, crispy chips and mayonnaise. This is a good way of lining your stomach for the evening ahead but doesn’t shout haute cuisine.

De Duvel is also one of the few eetcafés left that serves its wine in wine glasses and not the stackable IKEA beakers found in so many Amsterdam bars (my pet hate!). There is also more than one wine available by the glass and it's more or less drinkable. As a non-beer drinker, this is an important consideration for me.

De Duvel is on a side street just off Albert Cuyp market and has a nice terrace in the summer and a dark, cosy interior in the winter. It also doubles as a bar so it can get crowded and noisy, particularly at weekends. However, the place is popular all week so it's a good idea to reserve a table on any day.