Following in the footsteps of department store V&D’s restaurant La Place, the Amsterdam branch of De Bijenkorf (The Beehive) on Dam Square opened De Bijenkorf Kitchen on its top floor.
The restaurant, which can seat 500 people, is laid out like a canteen, with a mixture of self-service sandwich, dessert and juice counters, and cooking stations where chefs whip up burgers, pasta and wok dishes to order.
My open sandwich on wholegrain bread, curiously called 'a Caesar', was topped with omelette, smoked bacon, melted cheese, sliced tomatoes and lettuce. It was served with a small pot of mayonnaise.
Despite the long list of fillings, the sandwich was insipid. The only time my taste buds had anything to get excited about was when I wrapped my tongue around the smoked bacon.
R.’s burger, also topped with smoked bacon and melted cheese, and served with chips, was good but didn't come close to matching the size and sheer meaty goodness of the patties at Burger Bar.
De Bijenkorf is arguably Holland's most exclusive department store chain. The glowing copper light fixtures, long benches and floor-to-ceiling steel shelves filled with produce and culinary utensils - the work of Concrete, the design agency behind Supperclub, Nevy and others - give the Amsterdam restaurant a certain casual elegance. Like De Bijenkorf Kitchen’s layout, though, the food is little more than fancy canteen fare.
Mon, Sun 11.00-19.00; Tue-Fri 10.00-19.00, Thur until 21.00; Sat 09.30-19.00
Telephone: 0900 0919
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