Kapitein Zeppos

Café-Restaurant Kapitein Zeppos has a name almost as long as its history. Situated between Nes and Oudezijds Voorburgwal, it is tucked away on a tiny alley that’s easy to miss.

The alley has the evocative name Gebed Zonder End (Prayer Without End), which is a reference to the Santa Clara Convent that stood here in the 17th century.

The building that now houses Kapitein Zeppos dates from 1880 and was originally a cigar factory. The restaurant itself is named after the hero of a 1960s Flemish television series and other features from Holland’s southern neighbour are visible in the form of Belgian tile-topped tables and mirror-covered walls.

In the adjoining ‘winter garden’, a covered area with a glass roof (which can be opened in warm weather), coloured lights and climbing plants are strung up overhead and waistcoated waiters hurry back and forth, calling loudly to each other in both Dutch and Italian.

Kapitein Zeppos' menu is even more diverse than the furnishings. There are strong references to southern Europe in the form of croquettes with kale and pancetta, bream fillet with gnocchi and fennel meringue or tuna steak with a cassoulet of white beans, tomato, flageolets and stewed mussels.

There are also a surprising number of Asian dishes on the menu, such as the vegetarian main of Indian crepes stuffed with biryani rice, served with an aubergine-tomato chutney and mint raita; or interesting combinations of East and West, such as the veal entrecôte with Pad Thai noodles, papaya and a soya-lemon dressing.

Kapitein Zeppos is no longer the budget option it once was, which was a big draw for students at the nearby University of Amsterdam. In fact, it is now relatively expensive, something the cosy, old-fashioned interior belies.

This said, the excellent food that now comes out of Zeppos’ kitchen just about merits the price hike and is delivered to the tables with efficiency and flair by the waiters, some of whom have worked here for years.

The owner, Bob van Buren, plays the clarinet and has combined his love of music with his love of food. Check the website for details of musical performances, most of which take place on Sunday from 16.00.